I see them for the first time almost as soon as I begin wandering around the city — bright, shiny, plump, deep red hearts. They are everywhere in multiple sizes, hanging on strings, decorated with white trimmings and delectable. I quickly realize why Zagreb — Croatia’s capital — is called the city with a million hearts. Called licitars, akin to gingerbread, they are an integral part of Croatian culture and a symbol of Zagreb; they are gifted during times of celebration, be it weddings, birthdays or Christmas….
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